At first, it seems like a joke. There's no way they can be serious, you think, as the giant flatbread is deposited unceremoniously before you. It's shaped like a football, with puffy crusts surrounding a moat of molten white cheese called sulguni. On top of the cheese is a barely cooked egg, its yolk peeking out over the sea of dairy. And then the waiter gives a little nod, leans over, and starts mixing the egg into the cheese, leaving you with an enormous, delicious bread boat to contend with. This is khachapuri adjaruli, and it's serious business indeed.
Khachapuri adjaruli makes up just a small part of Georgian cuisine, but it's probably the most craveable, though the oeuvre of other khachapuris—some cheeseless, others filled with beans or corn—is vast and equally tempting. Still, if you're going to seek out Georgian food at two newish Georgian restaurants downtown, save room to go beyond simple carbohydrates.